
The rain is falling in a curtain of chilled out silver beads. It fills the half-finished fish pond, with its patient Buddha and dearth of gold fish, in the back garden of my folks new house. It beads on the black, oily, otter-shiny coat of my parent’s Labrador pup, Max, as he stands oblivious to the heavens ongoing effort to drown Scotland with his bright candy-pink tongue hanging over the flashing white teeth that line his laughing mouth, tail wagging furiously.
That tail is dangerous. Whoops, there goes Buddha.
My own dog is lying at my feet as I type, staring morosely out the open kitchen door at the continuous wet outside. Dougal is a Louisiana dog, and not at all impressed by the way the rain has suddenly turned cold or the sudden loss of his flighty Chicago girlfriend Stella. He now shares his digs with a huge, clumsy, 90Ib, overgrown Labrador pup called Max, and he is not at all impressed by that either.
Max loves his new found best friend and spends hours gnawing and licking at Dougal’s face, whining and bowing, presenting his well–chewed rope-toy to my dog’s stoic, topaz, and long-suffering gaze.
“Play with me! Ahhh, go on, play with me!” Max seems to be saying, bouncing and dancing, throwing his big, soft body in earnest circles, thick powerful tail wind-milling and flailing, knocking all the tea cups off the table and battering into the walls and the tender legs of onlookers
“Go on, grab the rope and pull. It’ll be great! It’ll be brilliant! Goan, goan, goan…”
The Maxinator is a lovely, big, eedjit of a dog and it’s hard not to feel sorry for him when my beast can take no more and, with a sudden, southern snarl of total exasperation, rugby tackles hims, bowling him flat off his paws into the mud. The big dog falls on his back with a house-shaking thud, an ever-surprised yelp and a piteously shocked look in his eyes.
Dougal stands over him, stiff and snarling with exhausted malice, his teeth buried in the loose skin of his tormentor’s neck. Max freezes in terror until the wee red southern savage slowly unlocks his jaws and lets the big dog get back on his soft puppy feet.
Two seconds later the rope is back in Max’s mouth, he is whining and dancing in his pleading circles and Dougal is staring at the ceiling, shaking his head.
Goddammit, I can hear him say, if only I had a gun and an opposable thumb.
My dad is practicing fiddle whilst my mother is at work. He plays a slow air he knows I like, and as I listen to the fiddle’s mourning I look out the open kitchen door on to a cold and rain-watery Scottish day.
It has been raining since yesterday morning. Most people would describe the weather outside as grey, dismissing it out of hand as another overcast, alleged sunrise in the grim north, another typical Scottish summer day.
Graham Burn, the husband of one of my best and oldest friend in Edinburgh smiled into his coffee on my last visit to their basement castle apartment as we looked out from the welcome warmth of their large stone kitchen, and sought the courage to brave the endless sheets of water tumbling down over the elegantly shining, water-stoic city of Edinburgh.
The Festival was in full swing but the kitchen jwas just too very comfortable to leave. Not to mention dry.
“Scotland does grey very well,” he murmured almost to himself, dark and grey-eyed himself, coffee cup sending fragrant curls of steam into the fire warm air. “But grey is my favourite colour, so that’s ok.”
I don’t think of the cloudy skies of Scotland as grey…grey is just too small a word.
The Scottish skies are silver and palest steel. They are thin layers of mercury and platinum through which the sun shows ghostly pale but determined. The Scottish heavens gleam and glisten rather than shine and glow. They are washes of water colour, subtle blues, improbable ambers, heavy indigos.
It always brings to mind that old nugget of info about the Eskimos and their hundreds of words for ’snow’. Likewise ‘grey’, used as an adjective to describe the skies of Scotland really just doesn’t cut it.
Only as the sun goes down, after a hard work day trying to punch through the drifting blankets of water draped softly over the green and sodden landscape, do the skies release their bright colours in the west, igniting the magnesium of the Caledonian firmament and throwing flames of red and gold across the clear darkening blue of the horizon in an exuberant last bow, before the sun slides exhausted and triumphant under the waves of the Irish sea on its way to the Caribbean, where I imagine cocktails and sunchairs are waiting.
Aye, it’s a plain kind of day, right enough.
I am rediscovering the joys of thick woolen socks, high boots and wooly hats. Waterproof jackets, gloves and hot chocolate. It’s the kind of research I really enjoy, especially with marshmallows.
It’s tough sometimes. After years of deciding only which colour wife-beater to team with my denim cut downs, or which pair of flip-flops to wear with a new cotton sundress, all this layering up is hard to get used to.
My fingers are always slightly cold, and my hair takes forever to dry in the cool, water-laden air. Whisky in my tea is appreciated now as never before, I cook thick stews and soups instead of salads and chicken and I can take up to twenty minutes to get out of the hot shower. It’s so nice and warm standing under the hot splash of water; it’s really so not once you are out and shivering in the chilly air.
My dad loves the hot spicy food of New Orleans so a small exclusive kitchen in Ayr is periodically busy with gumbos and red beans. Albert Alfonso’s hot sauce is taking a beating, but he has promised to bring more next time he visits.
Supply and demand, baby! And if demanding fails try begging.
The sound of Kermit Ruffins is drifting from the CD player, along with Lunasa, Steve Earle and the Zydepunks. I’m a fan of compilation CDs. Sometimes the mixes are a bit little bit strange but I like it that way. Music, like food is better with a lot of different flavours in the mix.
Even the air smells different here, thick with the salt-tang iodine of the sea, not the heady heaviness of fecund river mud perfumed with flowers.
If scents had a tint, if the air of a particular place could be a colour you could see, New Orleans air would be a dense, velvet-soft red, shot through with twisting veins of burnished gold. Ayrshire, on the other hand, would be a pellucid swirl of ice-blue, grass-green and white glittering salt underpinned with dark base of moist, grudging earth.
The Deep South of Louisiana, and the South-west of Scotland; such opposite parts of a internal spectrum. I’m in love with both.
My dad and I take the dogs to the beach almost every day, when it isn’t raining too much that is. My Ninth-Ward Crack-Hound has ruined Max’s training.
Obviously the glamour of a newly arrived Louisianan outlaw pooch supersedes all my father’s painstaking teachings and, at the moment, Max is in full teenage puppy rebellion.
No more fetching and carrying for him.
If he were human he would be painting his bedroom black, but since he is not he has picked up Dougal’s habit of going spontaneously deaf when told to do something that he doesn’t want to instead.
Dougal’s joy at the wide, wild beaches and the empty fields of Ayrshire comes off him in waves. There is no happier dog in the world than my Dougal when he off the leash at Dunure, or Glen Trool. He can run like a small, ginger greyhound when he wants to, and he does, straight towards some folk who are heading towards the ruins of Dunure castle just a little bit further along the beach. Max takes off after him, both dogs spontaneously losing their ability to hear despite my loud swearing. The distant figures, canine and bipedal, have their silhouetted drama thankfully out of my only-human hearing range. It looks pretty heated. There is much waving of arms and throwing of stones.
My dog is a bit of an asshole and his newest untaught trick is running up to distant children, peeing on them and hightailing it away.
I am filled with deep shame for my dog’s delinquent behavior, I have no idea where he picked it up from, and it’s not funny.
Well, not to the kids who have just been unexpected showered with love anyway.
Nope, not funny.
Not even kinda sorta. Honest.
Wanker dog.

St Charles